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Something special just
off the usual Florida tourist trails.
Marco Island lurks just north of the 10,000
Islands and the Florida Keys, south of Sansibel Island and west of Miami, down
"Alligator Alley" through the Everglades. Once an isolated barrier
island on the Gulf backed by mangroves, it's a full-service, if little-known
destination with exceptional beaches, wonderful bay and offshore fishing, fine
boating and sailing and a host of solid hotels and acceptable restaurants. Add a
fine wildlife area and easy access to nearby attractions such as the Everglades
and it's a wonder so few, save savvy Miami residents, discover this fine
destination.
While I remember the area from years back when
the only access was by ferry, we last visited during a convention of the Outdoor
Writers of America. Each morning I'd rise at dawn and hit the fine fishing off
the pedestrian bridge under the main access bridge. Snook and a host of
saltwater panfish and -- at least temporarily -- a tarpon hit plugs and jigs.
Newcomers might park and ride the Marco Island
Trolley which makes 21 stops on its 1 3/4-hour tour. You can get on and off when
you like. This is an excellent way to explore new sections of the beach. Marco
Island is famous for its seashells, and beach walks at low tide added more than
a dozen notable specimens to my collection. A guide to shells is a help.
Note: not every shiny object on the beach is a
pull-tab; very now and then some lucky shell collector finds a gold Spanish
coin. So keep an eye out! Modern coins spill from supine beach buffs too. We
found the best beaches were along "hotel row" where wide, soft sand
invites a lazy day contemplating the cosmic all. Rent an umbrella, slosh on lots
of sun block and, if you get thirsty, try beachfront bars which mix a lethal line
of tropical drinks. 
Light gear and medium-size fish spread
action over the fishing day.
Aquatic action abounds. During many breezy
afternoons we sailed rental catamarans and other craft available in "hotel
row." Swimming is, as usual in Florida, warm and safe. You can wade far out
into the Gulf or try the deeper water off passes. Don't step on sea urchin
shells, and shuffle your feet so you don't step on a stingray. Portuguese
Man-of-War aren't common, but if you spot one you need to avoid the painful
tentacles which trail below their pinkish-blue gas-filled floats. You might, if
you like, take an underwater snorkel tour or SCUBA lessons to learn diving
basics and enjoy the fauna and flora underwater.
Fishing highlights the area. Guides are available
at the Marco Island Marina near the Marco Island Bridge. Rental boats are
available; if you fish on your own start early -- fishing is best at first light
and dusk. You need a fishing license. Maps help too.
Offshore fishing offers a chance to catch grouper
and snapper off reefs and wrecks. We spent a half-day at this and connected with
masses of feisty barracuda, a cobia, lots of tripletail and the odd permit. Big
offshore species require a major investment: $450 to $600.
Fishing the passes for tarpon means more jumps
for the dollar. Like bonefish, tarpon shine in the water, not the pan, so you
catch and usually release your fish. Tarpon have extremely tough mouths so many
releases are "long line" as 150 to 200 pound tarpon jump three to six
feet out of the water and break off.
On calm days freshwater-type boats might run out
to Reef #1 just a couple of miles offshore from Marco Island. This artificial
reef made of old tires collects snook and snapper schools.
Two other options suit casual fishermen. You can
use bait or small jigs and catch a host of pound to six pound fish in the many
passes between the Gulf and inshore inlets. We tried this one morning with
Captain K. O. Williamson out of the Marco Island Marina and caught and mostly
released 20 to 30 fish --snook, trout and other species. Fishing the flats for
bonefish offers another unique option. Early and late on days when the tides run
strongly seem the best bet.
Those who don't fish enjoy a host of other
options. Hotels have freshwater swimming pools. There's golf and tennis at Marco
and Sansibel Islands. Port of the Islands also offers special picnic excursions
into the Ten Thousand Islands area. These are highly recommended and a
wonderful chance to see southwest Florida's only manatee sanctuary. Birders go
bonkers here with at least a dozen species seen on most trips, which are
uncommon outside Florida.
Rookery Bay National Estuarine Research Reserve
off Highway 951, the highway to Marco Island, is one of two Florida reserves.
Over 9,300 acres of tidal creeks, mangrove forests, islands and uplands help
scientists study these important areas where over 70 percent of all marine life
in the area spends some of its life.
When we visited the Biggs Nature Center in the
Reserve we were delighted to spot Roseate spoonbills, ospreys and bald eagles
too. The Center offers canoe trips, bird watcher safaris and boat tours at a
nominal fee. Free nature walks are available too. Call 775-8845 after you get to
Marco for information.
Tours of the Florida Everglades are available off
Highway 41 towards Miami. A number of small Seminole Indian villages offer
visitor access. Some have large airboats -- shallow-draft scows propelled from
the rear by a massive aircraft-type propeller in a mesh cage. Such airboats take
several passengers at a time for tours to spot alligators and other swamp life.
However, if you can afford the $250 or so for a guided day for a couple, that's
the way to go.
Shopping and dining out complete your options. We
found the usual beachwear and shell shops -- some of the best are in the bigger
hotels -- along with adequate arts and crafts and some astonishingly tacky
souvenir items.
Meals were decent. Most spots have conch chowder,
fried conch and fine fresh fish. There did not seem to be much difference in
seafood quality between local spots recommended by the Chamber and the much more
expensive hotel restaurants. We did enjoy wonderful duck one evening at the Marriott. Fried chicken is another worthwhile option on a budget. The weak spots
were poor bread and the dubious joys of Southern specialties such as biscuits
and gravy or grits. It seemed surprising that more tropical and semi-tropical
fruits were not available.
Overall, Marco Island offers a laid-back escape
from the too frantic East Florida Coast life. After a few days in Orlando or
Miami a relaxing stay at Marco lets visitors wind down before they head home.
INFORMATION
- Marco Island Area Chamber of Commerce, 1102
North Collier Blvd., Marco Island, FL 33937 941-394-7549.
- Florida Department of Commerce, Division of
Tourism, Collins Bldg., Tallahassee 3230. Lots of quality information. Try
to make requests area- and interest-specific.
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